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Training:
Basic Training, Crate & Potty Training, Tips

Begin basic training at an early Age

12/3/2018

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There are many techniques to use in training your new puppy. However, we have come up with Basic Training Steps that we have tried on our own puppies and have had great results with.  One of the most important things to remember is your puppy’s brain is like a little sponge and they learn things so quickly at this young age. ​Puppies as early as 8+ weeks are at the perfect time to start basic training.  With patience, good communications and consistency, your puppy should be on its way to becoming a well behaved pet companion!

TO BEGIN 
  • train inside and at the same location and preferably same time each day.
  • the more training "sessions" your pup has, the faster he will learn.  Try to train at least 5 times a week.
  • find a room or location where there is the least distractions. No other pets, no toys, no puppy beds, etc.  Just an empty room (area) with you and your pup.
  • each session should be no longer then 15 minutes as puppies have short attention spans. As they get older, extend the sessions a little longer each time. 
  • start with ONE command word each session. Once your pup masters that command, move onto another command.  
  • use lots of positive reinforcement words like "GOOD", "YES" or "WOW".
  • use a "happy"  tone of voice  when using your positive reinforcement words. 
  • give a special healthy dog treat when your pup has done a correct command. 
  • Always use the dog's name first and then the command.  For example "BELLASIT", "BELLAOFF".
  • catch your pup doing something positive and let them know you are proud of him.
  • begin with mastering the basic command words with a young puppy at home. Once they are older, you can enroll them in a puppy class where more advanced command words can be taught.  For example heel and training using their leashes, trick, etc. 
  • Practice, Praise and Repeat!

COMMAND WORDS -  before you begin training, come up with a list of basic training command words that everyone agrees upon.   We recommend sit, down, stay, off, settle, etc.   We do not recommend using the word NO too often.  This is an overused word and another more specific word should be used.  For example, instead of saying NO for a puppy jumping up, use OFF.  Here are some of the basic ones:   
  • SIT: The sit command is a very useful dog command and gives leadership over your dog.  Say the command “DOGNAME SIT” while pushing your dog’s rump down.  Keep your puppy in the sit position.  Once sit is completed, gently pet, and use positive reinforcement by saying “GOOD SIT” and release puppy from the sit position.  Repeat technique and have them sit longer the next time.  You can also use "OK" once your release them from the SIT position after completing the command successfully.
  • DOWN: For the down command, guide or coax your dog into the down position by saying “BELLADOWN” .  Gently  take a hold of the front legs and extend them out in front.  After practicing this a few times, try putting puppy in a “down” position by raising your right arm with palm facing flat towards dog, say the command "BELLADOWN" and coax either extending the front legs or pressing between puppy’s shoulder blades.
  • STAY:  For the stay command, start your dog in a sit position.  Raising your right hand with palm facing flat toward dog, say the command “BELLASTAY”, and then step right in front of them.  Start there standing in front of your dog.  If puppy moves any time after you say this, tell him firmly “STAY” and return him to a sitting position.  When you dog stays after half a minute, praise him vocally, only.  Petting and excitement may cause puppy to move.   Eventually begin working longer stays.  Try walking around as your puppy remains in a stay position.
  • SIT STAY & DOWN STAY: After completing the first three command words successfully, work up the dog commands “BELLASIT” and then the “BELLADOWN”.   In time your dog should remain in the “SIT” position for 5 minutes or longer and they do the "DOWN" command. 

PRAISE WORDS - alway use positive words like "GOODBELLA",   "YESBELLA" and have a very happy tone to your voice. This will teach your puppy they have done something correctly.  

PUPPY CLASSES - we highly recommend you enroll your puppy in an age appropriate training class. Remember only after all vaccination records are given (usually after 4 months of age).  This is excellent for socializing your puppy with other breeds, people of all ages and ethnicity.   

SOME PUPPY GAMES
Fetch – a classic, of course. To teach your pup to play, get two toys. Throw or roll one, and when Bella grabs it, wave the second toy around so that she’ll come running back. When she gets to you, gently take the first toy, and throw the second one.
Toy-on-a-string – great for puppies who need to be encouraged to chase a toy. For some reason, even dogs who don’t like fetch love this game. 
Chase – Get down on the pup’s level, gently shove her around, then run away. Let her catch you, and praise and offer a toy or treat when she does. This teaches beginner come-when-called skills.
(Have the puppy chase YOU, don’t play chase-the-puppy. You don’t want her to learn that running away from her human is a fun game)
Puppies love to play, but they have very short attention spans. Hold several 5-15 minute play sessions throughout the day.

​In the first weeks, some puppies will be too shy or overwhelmed to play. That’s okay. Proceed at her pace, and she’ll come around eventually. It took my shy, very serious puppy Jonas several days before he’d play with me. He eventually became very enthusiastic about fetch and tug-of-war.
Always end your puppy command training sessions with play time.  Throw a ball, run in the yard, make it fun!  Toss a toy….  Do whatever you like to do when playing and relaxing with your puppy.  Reward with a treat and say 
​

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Crate Training

12/3/2018

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Thing you need to know:
  1. Proper crate size is very important. Your pet should have just enough room to stand up, turn around and curl up.  You do not want a huge crate, for a small dog.
  1. Select a permanent location in your home with enough space for the crate and is in a room full of activity so your pet can enjoy his own “special” place while still being part of the family. Also place an old towel or blanket, or one of your shirts with your scent on it inside for bedding.  These steps will help your pet become comfortable with his new surroundings.
  1. Begin by keeping the crate door open. Let the puppy get comfortable with going in and out on his own.  Next, make him stay in it for a few minutes by restraining him at the door with your hand.  Gradually increase the time.  Once he is comfortable being inside the crate, restrain him by closing the door.  Stay in sight and always praise your pet and reward him with a treat.
  1. This training may take a few hours or days depending on your pet’s breed and temperament. Once he feels secure in the crate with the door closed, the pup will eventually sit quietly and sleep in his “new” home.
  1. Never punish your dog by forcing him into his crate or reprimanding him while he is in it. This will undermine your pet’s sense of security in his crate.
  1. Always take your pet outside to potty BEFORE placing him in the crate.
  1. Leaving a pet unattended and confined for any amount of time may cause anxiety in your pet and lead him to try to escape by chewing and forcing his way out.
  1. Always keep 2-3 of your dog’s favorite chew toys in his crate. Chew toys keep him interested in chewing on appropriate objects and discourage barking by keeping him occupied.
  1. Do not leave your pet in his crate all day: like babies, puppies have to “potty” about every 2 to 4 hours. At best, a puppy can “hold it” about 1 hour longer than his age in months.  For example, if your puppy is 3 months old, do not leave him in his kennel for more than 4 hours at any given time.  Take him outside regularly and praise him when he eliminates.
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6 Steps to a Perfect Puppy

12/3/2018

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Few experiences in life match the joy a new puppy brings. The frolicking, affection, and sheer innocence brighten everyone’s day and add a sweet sense of anticipation to returning home. But that joy can fade to frustration for those not prepared to face the challenges a new pup can bring. Happily, neither you nor your new puppy need to suffer through months of frustration. With the right preparation and the proper plan in place, acclimating your new little friend to life with you can be downright fun. As long as you stick to a routine and trust in your puppy’s ability to adapt, time will turn your new recruit into a happy, reliable new addition to the pack.

#1: Housetraining The key to success here is straightforward; your puppy must be put on a rigid schedule and must be either in your presence or else in a crate, yard or dog pen at all times. Yes, this requires ten to sixteen weeks of extreme vigilance but you are setting your pup up for a lifetime of success. It’s all about the groundwork.
Obtain a properly sized dog crate, which your puppy will eat and sleep in. The crate mimics the close comfort of a den and uses the canine’s innate dislike for eliminating where he sleeps and eats. This is why crate use is the most successful way to housebreak. Choose a plastic crate, which provides a more secure feeling than a cage-type enclosure. Be sure it is tall enough to let the puppy stand but only long enough to allow her to turn around. It should not be deep enough to let her eliminate in the back and lie down in the front. In most cases, a puppy’s growth rate will require you to move to a larger crate at the four-month stage.

Placement of the crate is up to you; some find it convenient to keep it in their bedroom, while others, knowing the puppy will whine, place it outside of the bedroom. Just know that if you respond to the puppy every time she whines you will be training the puppy to whine for attention.

Next, set up a schedule. Your puppy needs to eliminate in the early morning, after every meal, after play or walks, whenever she gets excited, and right before bedtime. And, for at least a few weeks, you will probably need to let her out sometime in the very early morning before you would normally awaken. Don’t expect her to last more than four hours during the first month or two. The key is to gradually build up her ability to “hold it,” while teaching her that the home is never a place to eliminate.

Feed her in her crate to endear her to it. And commit to her sleeping there; as tempting as it is to respond to whining or crying, if you relent and take her into your bed, you may end up with an accident occurring while you are sleeping. A major benefit of crate training is that your dog will happily settle into a crate should crating be necessary for travel. Never allow your puppy to wander unsupervised in the home until she is thoroughly reliable. Also, be sure to remove all food and water after eight pm. And never leave food down for more than ten minutes. Called free feeding, this makes it difficult to predict when the puppy will need to go. By feeding on a schedule, you “synchronize” your puppy’s system to eliminate predictably.

Never hit or rebuke your puppy for accidents. If she has an accident in front of you, interrupt her, calmly saying “no, no no,” then bring to the preferred spot. Avoid cleaning up messes in her presence as it could teach her that playing with waste is okay. If you stick to the routine, your puppy should soon grasp that eliminating outdoors is the ticket.

#2 When to Begin Socializing Your Puppy Immediately begin introducing your puppy to family, friends, neighbors, and resident dogs, as well as to dogs you know are safe and properly vaccinated, in a calm, safe, controlled environment. The first few months of your puppy’s life are a key socialization window and you need to acclimate her to as many different people and dogs as possible. You must, however, avoid interaction with unknown dogs until your puppy is fully vaccinated, which occurs around the four-month period. After that, socialize her with safe adult dogs and vaccinated puppies as well. When introducing your puppy to new people, have them take a laid-back approach. Frenetic greetings will only teach her to get overexcited whenever greeting, so be sure to keep it composed and dignified. I tell people to practice “calm indifference” with puppies, much as an adult dog would. Doing so will teach her to be tranquil around guests, instead of jumpy or nervous.

Get your puppy out of the home as soon as you can, to greet people and to experience the sights and sounds of the world. Take care not to overwhelm her, though, especially during the eight-to-eleven week period known as the fear imprint stage. During this well-defined period of development, if anything frightening occurs—a loud noise, a backfire, a crack of thunder—it will often stay with the dog for life. It is vital, then that you be cautious during this period, and make sure no sudden sounds or scary events occur. If something does scare your puppy, do not comfort or coddle her, as this will just reinforce and legitimize her frightened reaction.

As soon as your puppy passes the four-month immunity stage, take a puppy obedience class with her. You will both learn basic obedience and get lots of socializing time with people and puppies.

#3 How Much Exercise is Too Much Exercise? Be sure to walk your puppy, play with her, and teach her to chase and fetch a toy. But go easy on vigorous exercise for at least four to six months, especially with large breeds, whose fast-growing bones can be damaged by over-exercising. Stick to an easy, slow jog, and keep distances down to half a mile until the dog reaches six months. Avoid roughhousing and beware of older dogs playing rough. Going for group walks with family and friends is a great puppy exercise!

#4 When and How to Groom Your Puppy Softly brush and comb your puppy every day, and bathe her only when needed. This grooming ritual bonds you to her and also allows you to examine her for lumps, bumps, cuts, or injuries. Handle her legs, ears, tail, and feet, and even look in her mouth. And, with a puppy-sized nail clipper, begin tipping her little nails once per week. Just be sure to only snip off about a sixteenth of an inch, to avoid cutting the “quick” and hurting her. Also gently brush or wipe her teeth, using a soft baby toothbrush or a “finger brush,” available at pet stores. You are laying the groundwork for your dog to welcome handling.

#5 What and How Often You Should Feed Your Pup  Continue feeding the food the breeder gives you. If you wish to switch foods, do it gradually by mixing a little bit of the new food with old food over a few day period.  Feed her three times per day at first, about 1/4 cup per feeding.  Give plenty of daily fresh water too.  For the first week or so, you can leave their food out so they become familiar where their "food spot" is. 

#6 How to Raise a Confident, Well Adjusted Dog (It’s all about positive experiences) At three months of age (this is when your puppy is out of the sensitive fear-imprint stage), gradually desensitize her to odd sounds, particularly doorbells, vacuums, lawn mowers, and other potentially distressing noises that can trigger aggression or worry. Take your puppy to the front door and, with a treat in your hand, gently knock on the wood while giving it to her. Praise and repeat. Over a period of days, gradually increase her distance from the door and continue this process of knocking and giving a treat, using a helper to knock. You can do the same with the doorbell.

To desensitize her to the vacuum or some other loud appliance, have someone turn on the noisy appliance inside while you and the puppy play outdoors. The sound should be barely discernable to you at this point. Gradually bring her closer while playing and treating her. Eventually, you should be able to run the vacuum with her indoors without problem.
​

Take your puppy into your car right away. At first just sit in it with her, giving her a treat or two. Then, with a friend holding her, drive around the block, praise and go inside. Gradually lengthen the time she can drive until it becomes easy for her. Once she is content in the car, use a crate to transport her in for safety’s sake. By patiently following these six steps, by sticking to routine, you’ll be well on your way to having the perfect puppy that you deserve!

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Tips

12/3/2018

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  1. Get a Crate. It makes house training incredibly easy.
  2. Let your puppy sleep in your bedroom, at least for the first few nights. This whole experience is scary for a pup. Don’t make him sleep in the laundry room far away from you. Put the crate next to your bed so you can reassure him.
  3.  Baby gates are your friend. Use them to keep the puppy out of places you don’t want him to destroy.
  4.  Supervise, supervise, supervise. If you cannot watch him like a hawk, he needs to be in his crate or in his “room,” see below.
  5. Set up a puppy room for when you can’t supervise. Pick a small area like the bathroom or kitchen, block it off with baby gates. Add a bed in one corner and pee pad or newspapers on another corner.
  6. Pick a potty spot. If you don’t want Sparky pooping all over the yard as an adult, pick one area and take him directly there when it’s potty time. Make sure to use a command word like “potty” or “outside” every time your bring him to his spot to go potty
  7. Set a daily routine. House training proceeds more smoothly if your puppy knows what to expect from her day.
  8. Enroll in a puppy class. Your pup will learn some basic obedience, but the real benefit of puppy classes is socialization with other puppies and people.
  9. Don’t believe everything you read on the internet. Not all advice is good advice. Take everything with a grain of salt.
  10. Make sure everyone is on the same page. Discuss the puppy rules with your whole family. Figure out who will do what when. Pick one set of training cues and stick with them. With this being said, your entire family should all have the same one word command words that you as a family have agreed on. For example, you should all say “Potty” if you have chosen that command word for going potty. Some command words to use: outside, sit, stay, down, come, potty, ouch, walk, car, etc.  Read over the blog on Basic Puppy Commands.
  11. Play some puppy training games.
  12. Don’t encourage behavior that you’ll regret when he gets big. Jumping up is cute when he weighs ten pounds. It won’t be cute when he’s 60 pounds.
  13. Get your pup used to handling from day one, touching feet, nails, tail, ears, mouth, teeth, and belly with love. Your vet will thank you.
  14. Start grooming early on. For the same reason as above.
  15. Let your puppy meet at least two new (friendly and gentle) people every day.
  16. Take your puppy to the pet store. Great socialization opportunity. Keep her in the shopping cart and off the floor until she’s had all her puppy shots. ONLY AFTER 16 weeks of age when he is fully immunized!!!
  17. Introduce your pup to all kinds of novel things. People in funny hats. Remote control cars. Kids playing. Agility equipment. Balloons. Cats. Car rides.
  18.  Socialize, don’t traumatize. Introduce new experiences slowly and never let your puppy get overwhelmed.
  19. Invite friends and family to meet-the-puppy parties (again when he is a little older).
  20. Frozen wet wash clothes and age appropriate teething toys are great when puppies are teething.
  21. Reward good behavior, don’t wait for bad behavior. Reward the puppy when you see him doing something you like. Don’t wait until he’s misbehaving to give him attention.
  22. Bring you puppy out every day – even just for a few moments, to get fresh air and use to being in different environments.
  23. When he is a puppy, leave food out so he becomes familiar where his food is. Once, he is familiar with that, feed him 3 times a day or what is recommended by the vet.
  24. Pick up anything you don’t want destroyed. If it’s on the floor, it WILL be chewed.
  25. Get your puppy micro chipped. It’s your best chance at being reunited with your dog if he ever gets lost. You can get this done for around $25 at your vet or local shelter.
  26. Focus on what you want, not what you don’t want. For example, teach your puppy to sit when greeting people. Don’t just yell at her for jumping up.
  27. Watch your puppy’s poops. Disgusting? Yes. But it could save your puppy’s life. If you notice anything like blood, take your puppy for a vet visit ASAP.
  28. Provide toys. If you provide her with her own toys, she’s less likely to chew on yours (ha! Yeah right. It’s worth a shot, though).
  29. Make your own toys. Like kids who’d rather play with the box than with the toy that came in it, puppies are usually happier chewing on an empty plastic water bottle than an expensive store-bought toy.
  30. Rotate the toys. Let your puppy have two or three toys at a time. Changing up the toy selection will keep Sparky interested.
  31. Treat-dispensing toys make great puppy sitters.
  32. If you think your puppy needs to go potty at all, don’t hesitate to take him outside! You’d be surprised how often puppies need to go sometimes.
  33. Practice separation. As tempting as it is, don’t let Sparky be glued to your side all day. Letting your puppy have time to himself in his crate or room will help prevent separation anxiety.
  34. Hellos and Goodbyes should be no big deal. Don’t make a fuss over your pup when you leave or come home. Again, prevents separation anxiety.
  35. Don’t get offended when your puppy chews on you. Puppies bite. Sometimes painfully. It is NOT aggression. Do not react by yelling, smacking him, rolling him on his back or holding his muzzle shut.
  36. Don’t use ammonia-based cleaners. Your puppy will think it smells like urine and it will actually encourage her to pee there again. Use an enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle.
  37. Visit the vet. Take your pup for a visit when she doesn’t have an appointment. Bring some treats and ask the office staff to give her some. Make the vet’s office a fun place!
  38. As a general rule of thumb, the number of hours a puppy can “hold it” is his age in months plus one. So a two month old puppy should be crated for a maximum of three 
  39. As a general rule of thumb, the number of hours a puppy can “hold it” is his age in months plus one. So a two month old puppy should be crated for a maximum of three hours at a time (during the day. When they sleep at night, puppies can usually hold it for longer).
  40. Leave the TV or radio on when you leave your puppy home alone.
  41. Teach good leash manners early. Better to teach your puppy to walk nice on leash than to teach your adult dog to stop pulling on leash.
  42. Remember that your puppy is a baby – don’t ask too much of her. Don’t worry about whether she’ll perform a perfect sit/stay or heel. Plenty of time for that when she’s older. Focus on socialization and having fun.
  43. Take lots of pictures. Puppies grow so fast!!
  44. Be prepared for your pup to become an obnoxious little brat around age 6-10 months. Adolescence is even more challenging than puppyhood. Have fun with your new puppy. They will grow out of this stage!
  45.  Relax. An uptight new puppy owner will stress out your new bundle of joy. They can sense this and if you are relaxed, it makes for a much happier puppy.




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Potty Training

12/3/2018

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One question I constantly get is “what is the best method for Potty Training my new puppy?” I have tried all sorts of different methods and most were very hard and frustrating. I eventually came across one method that is so simple and easy and I tried it on my own puppies and dogs, and sure enough, this method really works!
To begin, it is strongly recommended that you be home with your puppy during the first two weeks following arrival. When you can spend the majority of the daylight hours with your new puppy, you will begin to see positive results twice as fast as someone who isn’t available as much and therefore, cannot give as much supervision.  Please remember, puppies do have accidents and that each puppy learns on an individual basis. Just be patient.
Toy breeds have smaller stomach, and after the first few days, they seem to eat in a browsing fashion due to the many distractions and smells of their new environment.  At first (until they can control their bladders better), your puppy should be ready to go potty around 30-40 minutes after eating or drinking.  For the first few weeks, leave out food and water, in the same location, so they can become familiar with where their food is. After a few weeks, start them on a feeding schedule, generally feeding them three times a day, until about 1 year of age.  Remove the meal after 30 minutes; this will help your puppy develop a regular eating pattern and elimination schedule.
1st STEP:    The easiest way to set up a puppy area for potty training is to confine the puppy in their “own” space. It can be a small hallway, laundry room, utility room, part of the kitchen, as long as the area can be closed off with some type of gate or closure.  We suggest a “Puppy Apartment” if you don’t have a small room. You can also purchase gates, or several gates to make your enclosure.
2nd STEP:  place puppy bed, food & water, newspaper (potty pad) as illustrated above.  Leave enough room in the middle for a small area.  Puppies do not like to potty where they sleep, eat or play.  So guess where they will go? That’s right: on the newspaper or pee pad.  Remember if you see them going, praise them and give an appropriate treat.
3rd STEP:  put your puppy in their new “room” with a few toys.  Rotate the toys often as they love to receive new toys. Try to keep your puppy in their new rooms at least 20 – 30 minutes each day, or whenever you are around to supervise them.  You want their new room to be a safe haven, non-threatening place for them to 

go, and have their own time and space, away from all distractions of your household. Remember, when you see them going potty, praise him and give an appropriate treat.  Make their room, a special place.  Each time you put your puppy in their “space” use the command word “BELLA ROOM”. Eventually, they will go in their room on their own.
After your puppy gets the routine of going on the potty pad (or newspaper) down pat, you are ready for next step.  This could take just a few days or a few weeks. Every puppy catches on at a different pace.
4th STEP: Place the newspaper near the door where you want the puppy to go out for a few days.  Then move the paper outside (weather permitted).  They will want to go to the paper and will let you know at the door.  You can always hang a bell and use their nose or paw to ring the bell each time before they go out. Use a command word like “BELLA POTTY” or “BELLA OUTSIDE”.  Praise them when they go outside.
Some apartment dwellers put the newspaper shredded up in a kitty litter box or kitty litter in place of newspaper or pee pads.
One of the best things about this potty training method is the puppy can have their own space and have everything they need.  They are not out running around tearing or chewing things up. You will know your puppy is safe and happy, and most importantly they will feel secure in their new environment even when left alone.
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    TRAINING

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